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Weekend getaway: California’s northern coast offers redwoods, rugged coastlines and more

Trinidad, California's smallest town, goes big on hospitality and natural beauty

Old Home Beach is one of several beaches in Trinidad with beautiful views. (Courtesy Taylor Greytak/Greater Trinidad Chamber of Commerce)
Old Home Beach is one of several beaches in Trinidad with beautiful views. (Courtesy Taylor Greytak/Greater Trinidad Chamber of Commerce)
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Hidden along California’s rugged Northern Coast lies the tiny town of Trinidad and its stunning coastal and forest landscapes. It’s a jewel of a town, with spectacular sea views and access to state and national parks.

What you won’t see are a lot of people. With a population of just 370, it’s the smallest incorporated city in the state, but it’s well worth a trip.

“It’s got a nice small-town vibe, the locals are friendly, and there’s a lot of stuff you can do here,” says John Adams, executive director of the local chamber of commerce. “If you’re staying in Trinidad, it’s going to feel pretty unique.”

Redwood forests are a key attraction along California's rugged northern coast. (Courtesy Taylor Greytak/Greater Trinidad Chamber of Commerce)
Redwood forests are a key attraction along California’s rugged northern coast. (Taylor Greytak/Greater Trinidad Chamber of Commerce)

Getting here

If you’re road-tripping up from the Bay Area, it’s a five to six hour drive — and Highway 101 gets windy up north. But you’ll want to make the drive just a bit longer, so you can experience the 31-mile Avenue of the Giants. Hike the trails, take in the majesty of this dense, towering redwood forest and snap some photos before moving on. If kitschy tourist attractions are your thing, you’ll find the Eternal Tree House just to the north; the stump of a 2,500-year-old tree was converted into a room in the early 1900s to house (what else?) a gift shop.

Book lovers will want to detour into Eureka, 40 minutes to the north, where charming Second Street is home to two impressive bookstores. Check out Eureka Books for a two-story celebration of new titles in a historic Victorian building or Booklegger to get lost in a maze of used books.

(You can also fly, by the way: United offers regular flights between San Francisco and the small California Redwood Coast/Humboldt County Airport (ACV) in McKinleyville, halfway between Eureka and Trinidad.)

There are several inns and vacation rentals here, but we were charmed by the cabins at Emerald Forest Cabins & RV, which offers cozy, well-heated accommodations shaded by redwoods. A gazebo and kids’ play structure adds to the delight for families.

Hiking through dense forests is one of a variety of activities available in Trinidad, a small town on California's northern coast. (Courtesy Rich Formica/Greater Trinidad Chamber of Commerce)
Hiking is a favorite activity for locals and visitors to Trinidad, a small town on California’s northern coast. (Rich Formica/Greater Trinidad Chamber of Commerce)

Towering trees, crashing waves

Trinidad is just a half hour south of Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, one of the four parks that make up Redwood National and State Parks. If you’re looking to spend the day in the forest, consider the 11.5-mile Miner’s Ridge and James Irvine Loop, which runs from the forest to the beach and back through the forest, with a stop at Fern Canyon, a stunning mini-canyon walled with ferns. Because of its popularity, the National Park Service has recently implemented a timed entry system for visitors to Fern Canyon who arrive between May 1 and Sept. 30, so be sure to plan accordingly.

Trinidad’s beaches are gorgeous too. Take a short hike to Trinidad State Beach via the Elkhead Trail (1.5 miles; portions of this trail are being repaired this spring, so check the state beach website before you go) or head south to Sue-meg State Park, where you can explore tide pools, hunt for agates and see a re-created Yurok village. The park, which was formerly known as Patrick’s Point, was renamed in 2021 as part of the California State Parks’ Reexamining our Past Initiative to honor the Yurok people on whose land the park rests.

Seals are among the wildlife species that inhabit the waters near Trinidad. (Courtesy Alex Johnson/Greater Trinidad Chamber of Commerce)
Seals are among the wildlife species that inhabit the waters near Trinidad. (Courtesy Alex Johnson/Greater Trinidad Chamber of Commerce)

Beachy breakfasts and ocean views

Fuel up at Trinidad’s Beachcomber Cafe, which offers breakfast sandwiches, açaí bowls, pastries and more with friendly service, laid-back vibes and Jack Johnson tunes playing over the speakers during the breakfast rush. The Beach Bun breakfast sandwich ($13) tops a toasted brioche bun with cheesy baked eggs, caramelized onions,  aioli and avocado.You’ll find all the usual espresso drinks here, plus a cafe miel ($5-$6) — a latte made with honey and cinnamon — and a Cup of Sunshine ($6) which combines chamomile tea with steamed milk, honey and cocoa sprinkles.

Looking for a restaurant with a jaw-dropping view? Seascape Restaurant is right along the water at Trinidad Head, offering freshly-caught seafood and panoramic views.

You’ll find the most distinctive dish in town at the Trinidad Lighthouse Grill, where a Savory Mashed Potato Cone ($4-$8) serves up creamy mashed potatoes in cornmeal waffle cones flecked with garlic, rosemary and chives, and the topping options include gravy, bacon, cheese and beef brisket. It’s delicious — and the gravy is available in beef and vegetarian versions.

Nearby nightlife

Trinidad may feel remote, but head 15 minutes south to Arcata, and you’re in college town territory. There, you’ll find spots such as Richard’s Goat Tea Room & Tavern, a quirky bar popular with the college crowd. It’s decorated with taxidermied and plushy goats, hence the name. The tavern offers craft cocktails, local wines, craft beers and a small menu of comforting bites, including a Buffalo Bleu take on mac and cheese. And there’s a music venue and theater — the Miniplex — in the back.

The Finnish Country Sauna & Tubs and the Cafe Mokka coffeehouse are just around the corner, offering espresso drinks, hot tubs and sauna sessions late into the evening. It was the place to be on the chilly February weekend we were there — and entirely booked up, so plan ahead.

There are also a number of breweries and cidermakers in the area, including Six Rivers Brewery in McKinleyville and Lost Coast Brewery and Humboldt Cider Co. in Eureka. And for folks interested in learning more about the Emerald Triangle, the areas of Humboldt, Mendocino and Trinity counties that make up the largest cannabis-producing area in the U.S., there’s no shortage of dispensaries, lounges and even cannabis tourism available. Humboldt Cannabis Tours in Eureka offers a variety of guided excursions, including farm tours and a “weed and wine” tour led by “cannaisseurs.”

If You Go

Eureka Books: Opens at 10 a.m. daily at 426 Second St. in Eureka; eurekabookshop.com.

Booklegger: Opens at 10 a.m. Monday-Saturday and noon on Sundays at 402 Second St. in Eureka.

Emerald Forest Cabins & RV: Cabins start at $139. 753 Patricks Point Drive in Trinidad; emeraldforestcabins.com.

Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park: Open sunrise to sunset at 127011 Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway in Orick; parks.ca.gov.

Trinidad State Beach: Open sunrise to sunset at 576 Pacific Ave, Trinidad; parks.ca.gov.

Sue-Meg State Park: Open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily at 4150 Patricks Point Drive in Trinidad; parks.ca.gov.

Beachcomber Cafe: Open from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. (closed Tuesday) at 363 Trinity St. in Trinidad; beachcombercafetrinidad.com.

Seascape Restaurant: Open from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily on Bay Street in Trinidad.

Trinidad Lighthouse Grill: Open from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily at 355 Main St. in Trinidad; trinidadlighthousegrill.com.

Richard’s Goat Tavern & Tea Room: Opens at 6 p.m. (closed Monday) at 401 I St. in Arcata; richardsgoat.com.

Finnish Country Sauna & Tubs: Open at 11 a.m. daily at 495 J. St. in Arcata; cafemokkaarcata.com.

Six Rivers Brewery: Opens at noon Tuesday-Saturday at 1300 Central Ave. in McKinleyville; sixriversbrewery.com.

Lost Coast Brewery:  Opens at noon Wednesday-Sunday at 1600 Sunset Drive in Eureka; lostcoast.com.

Humboldt Cider Co: Open from 4 to 9 p.m. daily at 517 F St. in Eureka; humboldtciderco.com.

Humboldt Cannabis Tours: Find details at humcannabis.com.